Sweet Eleanor Scarf/Wrap

Sweet Eleanor

Sweet Eleanor


This pattern was inspired by the Octoberfestdoily by Denise Owens. I wanted to make something special for my sister’s birthday. She likes simple elegance and warm tan/neutral shades so this was a natural choice.

The thread I used is quite a heavy thread from the Handweaver’s Studio and Gallery and it’s 50% cotton 50% linen. It is quite soft and has a nice rough texture that adds interest to the simple pattern. About 400m of similar weight thread should get you somethign a similar size. I used a 2mm hook.

Thanks to Lilacia on Ravelry for testing this for me. She used fingering weight yarn and suggests a size G hook i.e. 4mm from which I would conclude that she has a tighter tension than me (almost everyone does).

British notation is used. EDITED TO ADD: British double crochets are the same as American single crochets. Tension is not important.

Ch167.

R1. Dc in 2nd ch from hook. Dc in each remaining ch. Ch1 turn.

R2. *Dc5, ch6, sk 6st* rep from * 15 times. Dc in final dc. Ch1 turn.

R3. Dc in 1st st, *ch6, dc2 in loop, dc in next 4dc, sk1dc* rep from * 15 times. Do not ch. Turn.

R4. Slst in next dc, ch1, dc in same dc, dc in next 4dc, dc2 in loop, ch6. * Sk1dc, dc in next 5dc, dc2 in loop, ch6* rep 14 times. Dc in top of dc. Ch1 turn.

R5. Dc in 1st dc, *ch6, dc2 in loop, dc in next 6dc, sk1dc* rep from * 15 times. Do not ch. Turn.

R6. Slst in next dc, ch1, dc in same dc, dc in next 6dc, dc2 in loop, ch6. * Sk1dc, dc in next 7dc, dc2 in loop, ch6* rep 14 times. Dc in top of dc. Ch1 turn.

R7. Dc in 1st dc, *ch6, dc2 in loop, dc in next 8dc, sk1dc* rep from * 15 times. Do not ch. Turn.

R8. Slst in next dc, ch1, dc in same dc, dc in next 8dc, dc2 in loop, ch6. * Sk1dc, dc in next 9dc, dc2 in loop, ch6* rep 14 times. Dc in top of dc. Ch1 turn.

R9. Dc in 1st dc, *ch6, dc2 in loop, dc in next 10dc, sk1dc* rep from * 15 times. Do not ch. Turn.

Continue this stitch pattern until the scarf is the width that you are looking for.

EDITED TO ADD: Lots of people have asked in the comments what I mean by this and I apologise for not have clarified sooner. Each row you’ve worked so far has involved dc sections and chain sections. The chain sections stay the same length, the dc sections each get one stitch longer every row.

So on odd numbered rows you are working two dc stitches into the beginning of each chain loop on the row below and then skipping a stitch at the beginning of the next dc section. On even numbered rows you skip a dc before each chain section and work two dc into the chain loop on the row below after it. Using this pattern you continue to grow the dc sections as long as you want. I hope this helps.

Be aware that every row increases the length as well as the width. I did 35 rows.

Sweet Eleanor scarf detail

Sweet Eleanor detail

Final row should be an odd numbered row.

Final row: Dc in 1st dc. *Dc6 in loop, dc to next loop* rep from * to 1st from end. Sk final st. Bind off and weave in ends.

I chose not to block this scarf as I liked the way it was hanging already. You may decide yours needs blocking but I imagine the spiral shape  may make blocking tricky.

I am more proud of this pattern than anything else I’ve done. It feels like a big step up from some of the other things I’ve made.

As ever comments and questions are welcome.

EDITED in response to a question:

dc2 in loop = 2dc in loop created by the six chains not in any particular stitch. Sorry for lack of clarity!

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An quick update and a new FO!

I am so sorry not to have been posting lately. I have had personal reasons with which I won’t bore you all. However I have a cake recipe sat in storage waiting for me to finish tweaking and get some decent photos taken.

I also have some lovely FOs to share one of which I will put up today. My red shawl is complete!

Look! Pretty innit?

Red wool thread shawl

Red wool thread shawl

I am really happy with this. I had to frog and re-work the last three rows about four times in order to have enough thread but in the end it’s worked out nicely.

Blocking this made a huge difference. It increased about a third in size and the lovely open texture of the single crochets made itself clear. (Yes I have the world’s loosest tension.) I also finished the grey cardigan in my WIP Weds post and frogged the blue one. I know some people will be disappointed but as I said in the post I do actually already have one like it and it was really a second attempt. I decided it just wasn’t worth it. I have steam blocked both cardies now and will put up photos soon.

Blocking red thread shawl

Blocking red thread shawl

Red thread shawl close up

Red thread shawl close up


Waltzing Fans Shawl

Waltzing Fans shawl

Waltzing fans shawl

I made this pretty shawl out of wool ‘worsted’ thread from The Handweaver’s Studio I think it could equally be made from lace weight yarn without any problems and would be larger and more of a shawl rather than perhaps a shawlette!

I used 50g of the thread which wasn’t marked for meterage. I couldn’t say I’m afraid how much lace weight you would need. I’m going to guess at 100-150g and hide behind the sofa when you throw missiles at me for getting it wrong.

If you make this pattern in laceweight yarn please let me know what meterage you used in the comments!

EDIT: I also used a 2mm hook.

I call it the waltzing fans because the edge of the shawl has a ripple on it like dancers rising and falling as they waltz round the ballroom.

It is based on the fan stitch octagon from Melody Griffiths’ 201 Crochet Motifs Blocks Projects and Ideas but only half the round is completed before turning and the pattern is expanded with a pretty edging.

Instructions as follows:

Notation British. ch= chain, dc= double crochet, tr= treble, sl st= slip stitch, sp= space, [] repeat direction in brackets as directed, fan = 3tr 1ch 3tr

Make 8ch. Sl st in 1st ch to form a ring.

R1. 4ch [3tr in ring 1ch] 7 times. 2tr in ring. sl st in 3rd ch

R2. Sl st in 1st sp. 4ch 3tr in same sp.  [1ch make fan in next sp] 3 times.  1ch 3tr in next sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. ch4 turn.

R3. 3tr in ch1 sp. [1ch 1tr in next sp, 1ch 1fan in next space] 3 times. 1ch 1tr in next sp, 1ch 3tr in next sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. ch4 turn. (1 tr between each fan)

R4. 3tr in ch1 sp. *[1ch 1tr in next sp] twice  1ch 1fan in next space repeat section from* 3 times. [1ch 1tr in next sp] twice, 1ch 3tr in next sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. ch4 turn. (2 tr between each fan)

R5-R12. As for R3 and R4 Start each row 3tr in ch1 sp. Alternate 1ch 1tr across between each fan or edging. Each tr to be worked into the ch1 sp below. Between each fan or edging (half fan) the number of times you [1ch 1tr] increases  by 1 with each row i.e. for R5 there are 3 tr between each fan for R6 there are 4tr between each fan etc. Fans should always line up and be worked into the ch1 sp of the fan below. Count carefully it is easy to miss a tr into the spaces next to fans. At the end of each row work 3tr into final sp 1ch 1tr into same sp. 4ch and turn.

First few rows of the shawl

First few rows of the shawl

You should have between each fan:

R5.  [1ch 1tr] 3 times and 1ch

R6. [1ch 1tr] 4 times and 1ch

R7. [1ch 1tr] 5 times and 1ch

R8. [1ch 1tr] 6 times and 1ch

R9. [1ch 1tr] 7 times and 1ch

R10. [1ch 1tr] 8 times and 1ch

R11. [1ch 1tr] 9 times and 1ch

R12. [1ch 1tr] 10 times and 1ch

R13. 3tr in ch1 sp. *[1ch 1tr in next sp] 6 times 1ch 1tr in same sp [1ch 1tr in next sp] 5 times, 1ch 1fan in next space, repeat section from * 3 times. [1ch 1tr in next sp] 6 times 1ch 1tr in same sp [1ch 1tr in next sp] 5 times, 1ch 3tr in final sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. ch4 turn.

R14. 3tr in ch1 sp. *[1ch 1tr in next sp] 5 times 1ch sk 1 sp, 1fan in 2nd sp, [1ch 1tr in next sp] 5 times, 1ch 1fan in next space,

repeat section from * 3 times. [1ch 1tr in next sp] 5 times 1ch sk 1 sp, 1fan in 2nd sp, [1ch 1tr in next sp] 5 times, 1ch 3tr in final sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. 4ch and turn.

R15 – R23. Begin each row 3tr in ch1 sp. *Work [1ch 1tr in next sp] across to next fan. Fan in next fan sp. Repeatfrom *  across row until edging is reached end each row with 3tr in final sp 1ch 1tr in same sp, 4ch turn.

You should have between each fan or edging section:

R15. [1ch 1tr] 6 times and 1ch

R16. [1ch 1tr] 7 times and 1ch

R17. [1ch 1tr] 8 times and 1ch

R18. [1ch 1tr] 9 times and 1ch

R19. [1ch 1tr] 10 times and 1ch

R20. [1ch 1tr] 11 times and 1ch

R21. [1ch 1tr] 12 times and 1ch

R22. [1ch 1tr] 13 times and 1ch

R23. [1ch 1tr] 14 times and 1ch

R24. 3tr in ch1 sp. *[1ch 1tr in next sp] 8 times 1ch 1tr in same sp [1ch 1tr in next sp] 7 times, 1ch 1fan in next space, repeat section from * 7 times. [1ch 1tr in next sp] 8 times 1ch 1tr in same sp [1ch 1tr in next sp] 7 times, 1ch 3tr in final sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. ch4 turn.

R25. 3tr in ch1 sp. *[1ch 1tr in next sp] 7 times 1ch sk 1 sp, 1fan in 2nd sp, [1ch 1tr in next sp] 7 times, 1ch 1fan in next space, repeat section from * 7 times. [1ch 1tr in next sp] 7 times 1ch sk 1 sp, 1fan in 2nd sp, [1ch 1tr in next sp] 7 times, 1ch 3tr in final sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. 4ch turn.

R26 – R33. Begin each row 3tr in ch1 sp. *Work [1ch 1tr in next sp] across to next fan. Fan in next fan sp. Repeat from * across row until edging is reached end each row with 3tr in final sp 1ch 1tr in same sp, 4ch turn.

You should have between each fan or edging section:

This pattern really needs blocking

This pattern really needs blocking

R26. [1ch 1tr] 8 times and 1ch

R27. [1ch 1tr]9 times and 1ch

R28. [1ch 1tr] 10 times and 1ch

R29. [1ch 1tr] 11 times and 1ch

R30. [1ch 1tr] 12 times and 1ch

R31. [1ch 1tr] 13 times and 1ch

R32. [1ch 1tr] 14 times and 1ch

R33. [1ch 1tr] 15 times and 1ch

R34 As for R26-33 but only 1ch at end. Turn.

R35. Dc to end of row. Ch4 turn.

R36-38 See diagram.

Any questions or clarifications please let me know in the comments and I will try to sort you out as soon as possible. Enjoy!