Hopefulness Scarf Pattern

Hopefulness scarf

Hopefulness scarf

This scarf was designed for a lovely friend of mine who has had some truly horrible times lately. Somehow she remains one of the sunniest people I know. I have been very affected by her courage and ability to look to the future.

I used one skein of Malabrigo lace to make this scarf i.e. just under 430m and a 2.25mm hook (US size B I think). I strongly suggest that you choose a solid colour yarn to make this scarf. Or at least a semi-solid with only a small amount of variation in depth and a single hue. The stitch pattern will be lost in a heavily  variegated yarn.

The finished project, once blocked, is approximately 150cm long and 30cm wide.

The pattern is deceptive. While it uses simple techniques and only four stitches, it is not easy to memorise and you will probably need to use the chart the whole way through. I did!

The stitches used in the chart are chain stitches, UK triple/ US double, UK triple two together /US double two  together. The edge  pattern which I have written out below also uses UK half treble/US half double crochet stitches. From now on I will use US notation.

Hopefulness Scarf detail

Hopefulness Scarf detail

The pattern is worked in two halves from the middle of the scarf outwards.

I apologise that this is a hand-drawn chart that I’ve scanned in. I have done my best to make it clear and easy to read but if anyone struggles I am very sorry.

Chain 74 stitches. This is the foundation chain. The first turning chain (shown on the chart) is not included in this number.

(An aside: The pattern repeat is 24 stitches wide. So to make the scarf wider or narrower chain a multiple of 24 plus 2.)

Then work according to the chart, starting with the turning chain of three.

My pattern testers suggested that placing a stitch marker after each repeat helped them to stay on track with the pattern.

Please note that the pattern looks neatest if you work the double crochets into the tops of the relevant chain stitches instead of around the chains. I know it’s quicker to work around the chain but it looks really sharp if you actually work into the stitches.

Another point to mention is that if you are working the chart correctly the double crochet stitches should create smoothly curving vertical lines. Please click on the detail picture above to see what I mean.

After working the chart twice through, work the edge.

Modelling the Hopefulness Scarf

Modelling the Hopefulness Scarf

Edge pattern:

1. Chain 2, work a row of half double crochets.

2. & 3. Chain 3, 3 doubles, *2 chain, skip 2 stitches, work a double crochet in each of the next 2  stitches, repeat from * until the last 4 stitches which are all doubles.

Repeat rows 1-3 then repeat row 1 as the final row. Bind off and weave in ends.

Attach the yarn to the reverse of the foundation chain and begin again with the chart.

To download the chart* click here: HopefulnessScarfChart

The scarf really benefits from blocking to straighten out the edges and open up the lace.

I hope you enjoy making this pattern.

For a variation, have a look at the chart. It is divided into two sections. If you just repeat the first section, instead of alternating with section two, you will also get a pretty lace but this time the arches will stack on top of each other instead of being offset like scales.

Thank you for reading, please send me comments or questions.

Special thanks to my volunteer pattern testers, Ravelry members: kimothy76, jacquimorse, Mshanane, SmallCrochet, AnarchyCox, wlindboe, lorithetrainer, ManicBeach, yarnedaround and funisinstyle.

*Extra super special thanks to Aparna Rolfe for making a professional quality chart for me on her pattern drawing software to replace my scruffy hand-drawn one. Her designs on Ravelry are well worth checking out by clicking her name. Lovely, stylish, contemporary  work.

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An quick update and a new FO!

I am so sorry not to have been posting lately. I have had personal reasons with which I won’t bore you all. However I have a cake recipe sat in storage waiting for me to finish tweaking and get some decent photos taken.

I also have some lovely FOs to share one of which I will put up today. My red shawl is complete!

Look! Pretty innit?

Red wool thread shawl

Red wool thread shawl

I am really happy with this. I had to frog and re-work the last three rows about four times in order to have enough thread but in the end it’s worked out nicely.

Blocking this made a huge difference. It increased about a third in size and the lovely open texture of the single crochets made itself clear. (Yes I have the world’s loosest tension.) I also finished the grey cardigan in my WIP Weds post and frogged the blue one. I know some people will be disappointed but as I said in the post I do actually already have one like it and it was really a second attempt. I decided it just wasn’t worth it. I have steam blocked both cardies now and will put up photos soon.

Blocking red thread shawl

Blocking red thread shawl

Red thread shawl close up

Red thread shawl close up


Spring grass beret

Spring grass beret

Spring grass beret

Man I am on fire with the patterns right now! But it’s just because I love you.

This cute little beret came from the weekly designers mini-challenge on Ravelry. The challenge was to produce an item with the  following features:

Object: Hat
Theme: Springtime! But flowers are not allowed!
Technique: Must incorporate double crochet* (for crocheters) and nupps (for knitters).

*American notation i.e. British triple crochets

I have some lovely green cashmere I’m recycling out of a cardigan that’s become too small for me (and got moth holes grrrrr!) . Double stranded it’s like 2ply laceweight and is strong enough to work. Single ply it’s just too breakable.

I reckon you should be able to make this easily with 50g of 2ply laceweight yarn. I weighed the finished object at about 30g. I need to get some digital scales  to help me calculate meterage.

Close up of rows 1-5

Close up of rows 1-5

I used a 2mm hook and the first 5 rounds should measure 9cm (3.5in) across. Use whatever hook you need to get your gauge right. To be honest this pattern can safely be worked up a little looser gauge than I’ve made it if you’d like a little more slouchy look.

I’ll be using British notation to write this up. Do not turn at the end of rounds.

Dc= Double crochet,  Tr= Triple crochet, Htr= Half triple crochet, Ch= Chain, Tr2tog = Triple 2 together, [ ]= repeat section between brackets the given number of times, Sk = skip e.g. Sk2ch means skip the next 2 chain stitches Slst = slip stitch, Sp= space.

To Tr2tog yarn over, insert hook into next stitch draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through two loops, yarn over and insert into next stitch, draw up another loop, yarn over and draw through two loops, yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook.)

Where the pattern says to “Slst in 3rd Ch to join” it means the 3rd chain of the current row i.e. the 3rd of the vertical chains with which you began the row.

All photos in this post are copyright of the fabulously talented Miss South of North/South Food April 2011.

Make a magic ring and Ch 3.

R1. Tr 19 times in the ring. Sl st in 3rd Ch to join. Ch 1.

Edited to correct: R2. Dc in each tr. Sl st in 1st Ch to join. Ch 5.

R3. [Tr 2 Ch2] 9 times. Tr and Slst to 3rd Ch to join. Ch 5.

R4. [Sk2ch, 2Tr in each of the next 2 Tr, Ch2] 9 times. Sk2ch,  2Tr in next Tr, Tr in next Tr. Slst in 3rd Ch to join. Ch6.

R5. [Sk2ch, Tr in each of next 4Tr, Ch3] 9 times. Sk2ch, Tr in each of next 3 Tr, Sl st in 3rd Ch to join. Ch9.

R6. [Sk3ch, Tr in each of next 4 Tr, Ch6] 9 times. Sk3ch, Tr in each of next 3Tr, Sl st in 3rd ch to join. Ch6.

R7. [Tr in Ch6Sp, Ch3 Tr in next 3 Tr, 2Tr in next Tr, Ch3] 9 times. Tr in Ch6Sp, Ch3, Tr in next 4 Tr. Slst in 3rd Ch to join. Ch6.

R8. [Sk3ch, 3Tr in next Tr, Ch3, Sk3ch, Tr in next 5 Tr, Ch3] 9 times. Sk3ch, 3Tr in next Tr, Ch3, Sk3ch, Tr in next 4 Tr. Slst in 3rd Ch to join. Ch5.

R9. [Sk3ch, 2Tr in each of next 3Tr, Ch2, Sk3ch, Tr in next 5Tr, Ch2] 9 times. Sk3ch, 2Tr in each of next 3Tr, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr in next 4 Tr. Slst in 3rd Ch to join. Ch5.

R10. [Sk2ch, 2Tr in next Tr, Tr in next 2Tr, Ch2, Tr in next 2Tr, 2Tr in next Tr, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr2tog, Tr, Tr2tog, Ch2] 9 times.  Sk2ch, 2Tr in next Tr, Tr in next 2Tr, Ch2, Tr in next 2Tr, 2Tr in next Tr, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr2tog, Tr in next 2Tr. Sl st in 3rd Ch to join. Ch5.

R11. [Sk2ch, 2Tr in next Tr, Tr in next 3Tr, Ch3 Sk2ch, Tr in next 3Tr, 2Tr in next Tr, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr2tog, Tr, Ch2] 9 times. Sk2ch, 2Tr in next Tr, Tr in next 3Tr, Ch3, Sk2ch, Tr in next 3Tr, 2Tr in next Tr, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr2tog. Sl st in 3rd Ch to join. Ch5.

R12. [Sk2ch, 2Tr in next Tr, Tr in next 4Tr, Ch4 Sk3ch, Tr in next 4Tr, 2Tr in next Tr, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr2tog, Ch2] 9 times. Sk2ch, 2Tr in next Tr, Tr in next 4Tr, Ch4, Sk3ch, Tr in next 4Tr, 2Tr in next Tr, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr in next Tr. Sl st in 3rd Ch to join. Ch5.

R13. [Sk2ch, 2Tr in next Tr, Tr in next 5Tr, Ch4 Sk4ch, Tr in next 5Tr, 2Tr in next Tr, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr in next Tr, Ch2] 9 times. Sk2ch, 2Tr in next Tr, Tr in next 5Tr, Ch4 Sk4ch, Tr in next 5Tr, 2Tr in next Tr, Ch2, Sk2ch. Sl st in 3rd Ch to join. Ch6.

R14. [Sk2ch, Tr in next 7Tr, Ch4 Sk4ch, Tr in next 7Tr, Ch3, Sk2ch, Tr in next Tr, Ch3] 9 times. Sk2ch, Tr in next 7Tr, Ch4 Sk4ch, Tr in next 7Tr, Ch3, Sk2ch. Sl st in 3rd Ch to join. Ch6.

R15. [Sk3ch, Tr2tog, Tr in next 5Tr, Ch3 Sk4ch, Tr in next 5Tr, Tr2tog, Ch3, Sk3ch, 2Tr in next Tr, Ch3] 9 times. Sk3ch, Tr2tog, Tr in next 5Tr, Ch3, Sk4ch, Tr in next 5Tr, Tr2tog, Ch3, Sk3ch, Tr in next Tr. Sl st in 3rd Ch to join. Ch5.

R16. [Sk3ch, Tr2tog, Tr in next 4Tr, Ch2, Sk3ch, Tr in next 4Tr, Tr2tog, Ch2, Sk3ch, Tr in next 2Tr, Ch2] 9 times. Sk3ch, Tr2tog, Tr in next 4Tr, Ch2, Sk3ch, Tr in next 4Tr, Tr2tog, Ch2, Sk3ch, Tr in next Tr. Sl st in 3rd Ch to join. Ch5.

R17. [Sk2ch, Tr2tog, Tr in next 3Tr, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr in next 3Tr, Tr2tog, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr2tog, Ch2] 9 times. Sk2ch, Tr2tog, Tr in next 3Tr, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr in next 3Tr, Tr2tog, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr in next Tr. Sl st in 3rd Ch to join. Ch5.

R18. [Sk2ch, Tr2tog, Tr in next 2Tr, Ch, Sk2ch, Tr in next 2Tr, Tr2tog, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr in next Tr, Ch2] 9 times. Sk2ch, Tr2tog, Tr in next 2Tr, Ch, Sk2ch, Tr in next 2Tr, Tr2tog, Ch2, Sk2ch.  Sl st in 3rd Ch to join. Ch5.

R19. [Sk2ch, Tr2tog, Tr, Ch, Sk, Tr in next Tr, Tr2tog, Ch2, Sk2ch, Tr in next Tr, Ch2] 9 times. Sk2ch, Tr2tog, Tr, Ch, Sk, Tr in next Tr, Tr2tog, Ch2, Sk2ch.  Sl st in 3rd Ch to join. Ch2

R20. Htr all around. Slst in 2nd Ch to join. Finish off and work in ends.

As ever comments and clarifications are welcome. This should be a fairly quick and easy project for all that the instructions might look a bit complicated. I think it would look really nice in sunny autumnal colours too!

The finished beret

The finished beret

Oo la la!

Oo la la!


Waltzing Fans Shawl

Waltzing Fans shawl

Waltzing fans shawl

I made this pretty shawl out of wool ‘worsted’ thread from The Handweaver’s Studio I think it could equally be made from lace weight yarn without any problems and would be larger and more of a shawl rather than perhaps a shawlette!

I used 50g of the thread which wasn’t marked for meterage. I couldn’t say I’m afraid how much lace weight you would need. I’m going to guess at 100-150g and hide behind the sofa when you throw missiles at me for getting it wrong.

If you make this pattern in laceweight yarn please let me know what meterage you used in the comments!

EDIT: I also used a 2mm hook.

I call it the waltzing fans because the edge of the shawl has a ripple on it like dancers rising and falling as they waltz round the ballroom.

It is based on the fan stitch octagon from Melody Griffiths’ 201 Crochet Motifs Blocks Projects and Ideas but only half the round is completed before turning and the pattern is expanded with a pretty edging.

Instructions as follows:

Notation British. ch= chain, dc= double crochet, tr= treble, sl st= slip stitch, sp= space, [] repeat direction in brackets as directed, fan = 3tr 1ch 3tr

Make 8ch. Sl st in 1st ch to form a ring.

R1. 4ch [3tr in ring 1ch] 7 times. 2tr in ring. sl st in 3rd ch

R2. Sl st in 1st sp. 4ch 3tr in same sp.  [1ch make fan in next sp] 3 times.  1ch 3tr in next sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. ch4 turn.

R3. 3tr in ch1 sp. [1ch 1tr in next sp, 1ch 1fan in next space] 3 times. 1ch 1tr in next sp, 1ch 3tr in next sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. ch4 turn. (1 tr between each fan)

R4. 3tr in ch1 sp. *[1ch 1tr in next sp] twice  1ch 1fan in next space repeat section from* 3 times. [1ch 1tr in next sp] twice, 1ch 3tr in next sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. ch4 turn. (2 tr between each fan)

R5-R12. As for R3 and R4 Start each row 3tr in ch1 sp. Alternate 1ch 1tr across between each fan or edging. Each tr to be worked into the ch1 sp below. Between each fan or edging (half fan) the number of times you [1ch 1tr] increases  by 1 with each row i.e. for R5 there are 3 tr between each fan for R6 there are 4tr between each fan etc. Fans should always line up and be worked into the ch1 sp of the fan below. Count carefully it is easy to miss a tr into the spaces next to fans. At the end of each row work 3tr into final sp 1ch 1tr into same sp. 4ch and turn.

First few rows of the shawl

First few rows of the shawl

You should have between each fan:

R5.  [1ch 1tr] 3 times and 1ch

R6. [1ch 1tr] 4 times and 1ch

R7. [1ch 1tr] 5 times and 1ch

R8. [1ch 1tr] 6 times and 1ch

R9. [1ch 1tr] 7 times and 1ch

R10. [1ch 1tr] 8 times and 1ch

R11. [1ch 1tr] 9 times and 1ch

R12. [1ch 1tr] 10 times and 1ch

R13. 3tr in ch1 sp. *[1ch 1tr in next sp] 6 times 1ch 1tr in same sp [1ch 1tr in next sp] 5 times, 1ch 1fan in next space, repeat section from * 3 times. [1ch 1tr in next sp] 6 times 1ch 1tr in same sp [1ch 1tr in next sp] 5 times, 1ch 3tr in final sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. ch4 turn.

R14. 3tr in ch1 sp. *[1ch 1tr in next sp] 5 times 1ch sk 1 sp, 1fan in 2nd sp, [1ch 1tr in next sp] 5 times, 1ch 1fan in next space,

repeat section from * 3 times. [1ch 1tr in next sp] 5 times 1ch sk 1 sp, 1fan in 2nd sp, [1ch 1tr in next sp] 5 times, 1ch 3tr in final sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. 4ch and turn.

R15 – R23. Begin each row 3tr in ch1 sp. *Work [1ch 1tr in next sp] across to next fan. Fan in next fan sp. Repeatfrom *  across row until edging is reached end each row with 3tr in final sp 1ch 1tr in same sp, 4ch turn.

You should have between each fan or edging section:

R15. [1ch 1tr] 6 times and 1ch

R16. [1ch 1tr] 7 times and 1ch

R17. [1ch 1tr] 8 times and 1ch

R18. [1ch 1tr] 9 times and 1ch

R19. [1ch 1tr] 10 times and 1ch

R20. [1ch 1tr] 11 times and 1ch

R21. [1ch 1tr] 12 times and 1ch

R22. [1ch 1tr] 13 times and 1ch

R23. [1ch 1tr] 14 times and 1ch

R24. 3tr in ch1 sp. *[1ch 1tr in next sp] 8 times 1ch 1tr in same sp [1ch 1tr in next sp] 7 times, 1ch 1fan in next space, repeat section from * 7 times. [1ch 1tr in next sp] 8 times 1ch 1tr in same sp [1ch 1tr in next sp] 7 times, 1ch 3tr in final sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. ch4 turn.

R25. 3tr in ch1 sp. *[1ch 1tr in next sp] 7 times 1ch sk 1 sp, 1fan in 2nd sp, [1ch 1tr in next sp] 7 times, 1ch 1fan in next space, repeat section from * 7 times. [1ch 1tr in next sp] 7 times 1ch sk 1 sp, 1fan in 2nd sp, [1ch 1tr in next sp] 7 times, 1ch 3tr in final sp 1ch 1tr in same sp. 4ch turn.

R26 – R33. Begin each row 3tr in ch1 sp. *Work [1ch 1tr in next sp] across to next fan. Fan in next fan sp. Repeat from * across row until edging is reached end each row with 3tr in final sp 1ch 1tr in same sp, 4ch turn.

You should have between each fan or edging section:

This pattern really needs blocking

This pattern really needs blocking

R26. [1ch 1tr] 8 times and 1ch

R27. [1ch 1tr]9 times and 1ch

R28. [1ch 1tr] 10 times and 1ch

R29. [1ch 1tr] 11 times and 1ch

R30. [1ch 1tr] 12 times and 1ch

R31. [1ch 1tr] 13 times and 1ch

R32. [1ch 1tr] 14 times and 1ch

R33. [1ch 1tr] 15 times and 1ch

R34 As for R26-33 but only 1ch at end. Turn.

R35. Dc to end of row. Ch4 turn.

R36-38 See diagram.

Any questions or clarifications please let me know in the comments and I will try to sort you out as soon as possible. Enjoy!


Apology

So… I have been meaning to post about my lovely shawl which I blocked all  of a couple of weeks ago now.

I didn’t want to post about it without the pattern and getting the pattern written up has been something of a faff. So in the meantime here are some pretty pictures. I promise the pattern with charts will be up shortly.

Waltzing Fans Shawl

Waltzing Fans Shawl

Waltzing fans at the window

Waltzing fans at the window

Sorry.


Blocking wire tantrum

Where are my blocking wires?

I have finally finished my much frogged lilac lace shawl. It’s smaller than I hoped, perhaps more of a shawlette but that’s ok. I can live with that. What I can’t live without is the blocking wires I ordered on Etsy all of 8 days ago (March 13th) and still haven’t received. Grrr.

It’s not that I’m impatient much. Well ok, I am when it comes to crochet.

I’ve done all the  woooooork. I wanna see how it loooooks! [in best whiny toddler voice]

At present the whole thing is definitely a bit out of shape with certain areas having been pulled out during the making and others remaining tight and springy. Also I think that the yarn will soften considerably during the washing. Perhaps I should just wash it and stretch it out gently just to get an idea….

NO!

I’m going to leave it so it’ll be more of a surprise when it’s done.

The shawl is currently about 104cm across and 43cm from the centre to the edge in the middle. These should really have aratio of 2:1 so you can imagine how much it’s going to change when I get it blocked.

The wires  and pins are coming over from France and were dispatched on March 14th. According to Ro, who runs the shop, the post is a bit erratic and I should get in touch if I don’t have them by March 27th. They send by standard mail so I have no way of knowing how soon it should all be here.

Anyway I don’t blame them for trying to keep shipping costs low and that’s very welcome because the equivalent set on amazon was at least a fiver dearer. Still…

I want my blocking wires!

Throws self to ground. Drums heels. Gets up. Brushes fluff off jumper.

Goes off to do some proper work.

(With a promise that photos of the shawl both before and after blocking will follow once I get my parcel.)