Sweet Eleanor Scarf/Wrap
Posted: 03/09/2011 Filed under: Original patterns | Tags: crochet, do it on the train, easy, good for meet ups, pretty, scarf, simple, thread, travel crochet, very very long rows, wrap 80 Comments
Sweet Eleanor
This pattern was inspired by the Octoberfestdoily by Denise Owens. I wanted to make something special for my sister’s birthday. She likes simple elegance and warm tan/neutral shades so this was a natural choice.
The thread I used is quite a heavy thread from the Handweaver’s Studio and Gallery and it’s 50% cotton 50% linen. It is quite soft and has a nice rough texture that adds interest to the simple pattern. About 400m of similar weight thread should get you somethign a similar size. I used a 2mm hook.
Thanks to Lilacia on Ravelry for testing this for me. She used fingering weight yarn and suggests a size G hook i.e. 4mm from which I would conclude that she has a tighter tension than me (almost everyone does).
British notation is used. EDITED TO ADD: British double crochets are the same as American single crochets. Tension is not important.
Ch167.
R1. Dc in 2nd ch from hook. Dc in each remaining ch. Ch1 turn.
R2. *Dc5, ch6, sk 6st* rep from * 15 times. Dc in final dc. Ch1 turn.
R3. Dc in 1st st, *ch6, dc2 in loop, dc in next 4dc, sk1dc* rep from * 15 times. Do not ch. Turn.
R4. Slst in next dc, ch1, dc in same dc, dc in next 4dc, dc2 in loop, ch6. * Sk1dc, dc in next 5dc, dc2 in loop, ch6* rep 14 times. Dc in top of dc. Ch1 turn.
R5. Dc in 1st dc, *ch6, dc2 in loop, dc in next 6dc, sk1dc* rep from * 15 times. Do not ch. Turn.
R6. Slst in next dc, ch1, dc in same dc, dc in next 6dc, dc2 in loop, ch6. * Sk1dc, dc in next 7dc, dc2 in loop, ch6* rep 14 times. Dc in top of dc. Ch1 turn.
R7. Dc in 1st dc, *ch6, dc2 in loop, dc in next 8dc, sk1dc* rep from * 15 times. Do not ch. Turn.
R8. Slst in next dc, ch1, dc in same dc, dc in next 8dc, dc2 in loop, ch6. * Sk1dc, dc in next 9dc, dc2 in loop, ch6* rep 14 times. Dc in top of dc. Ch1 turn.
R9. Dc in 1st dc, *ch6, dc2 in loop, dc in next 10dc, sk1dc* rep from * 15 times. Do not ch. Turn.
Continue this stitch pattern until the scarf is the width that you are looking for.
EDITED TO ADD: Lots of people have asked in the comments what I mean by this and I apologise for not have clarified sooner. Each row you’ve worked so far has involved dc sections and chain sections. The chain sections stay the same length, the dc sections each get one stitch longer every row.
So on odd numbered rows you are working two dc stitches into the beginning of each chain loop on the row below and then skipping a stitch at the beginning of the next dc section. On even numbered rows you skip a dc before each chain section and work two dc into the chain loop on the row below after it. Using this pattern you continue to grow the dc sections as long as you want. I hope this helps.
Be aware that every row increases the length as well as the width. I did 35 rows.
Sweet Eleanor detail
Final row should be an odd numbered row.
Final row: Dc in 1st dc. *Dc6 in loop, dc to next loop* rep from * to 1st from end. Sk final st. Bind off and weave in ends.
I chose not to block this scarf as I liked the way it was hanging already. You may decide yours needs blocking but I imagine the spiral shape may make blocking tricky.
I am more proud of this pattern than anything else I’ve done. It feels like a big step up from some of the other things I’ve made.
As ever comments and questions are welcome.
EDITED in response to a question:
dc2 in loop = 2dc in loop created by the six chains not in any particular stitch. Sorry for lack of clarity!
Yarn & Spices 
this is such a beautiful scarf. Thanks for sharing
This is beautiful! How do you think the pattern would fair with a much heavier weight yarn (like worsted, or maybe a smidge lighter)? Unfortunately all my thread gets gobbled up for my tatting addiction. Ha ha. Anyway, beautiful work, thanks for sharing!
Oo y’know what I don’t know. Give a few rows a try and see how it goes? if you don’t want to go through the faff of making whole rows you can make a swatch. Chain a few multiples of 11 plus two extra then start at R1. In R2 work across however many multiples of 11 it was and join in the last stitch.
If that’s not clear let me know.
Hi,
I am having such a problem with this..I feel like an idiot..
I don’t understand how one row can have 14 loops and the other row 15 loops…my loops seem to be lined up and I always come out with 15 on each row…
HELP!!!
Thanks,
T
You’re not doing it wrong. There should always be fifteen loops!
But one row starts with a loop and then produces a further fourteen loops afterwards. The other row starts with a row of dcs and then makes fifteen loops. Does that make more sense?
On reflection I’m not sure how well it would drape in a thicker yarn. But still give it a try if you like and let me know.
Ok, an update. You are absolutely correct, it doesn’t drape well with worsted weight. However, I think I found the perfect yarn in my stash for this project. 🙂
Great – wish I thought of that myself. 😉 Must try this soon.
Lovely – thanks for posting!
Wow This is an amazing design! I love it thanks for sharing!
I’ll bet this would drape wonderfully with a viscose type yarn, I have some gorgeous DK weight SWTC bamboo that would probably be wonderful with this pattern. I wonder what hook size I would use…
For the pattern repeat, do I start with round 1 or round 2? Loving it!
-T
Hiya Tracy,
I assume you mean for a swatch to check your yarn or thread?
Start with row one so you have a row of dcs to base the pattern on then in row two do as many repeats as you did sets of 11 chains in the swatch. I hope that is a bit clearer.
Sorry to be confusing! Actually I am not swatching, but working full rows 1-9. After row 9 it says to repeat pattern. What I am wondering is – is it a repeat of rows 1-9 or 2-9? In other words, is row 10 the same as row 1 or row 2? Thanks for the help and for making this pattern available.
Ok, I’m an idiot. Note to self: read pattern all the way through before pestering designer with questions. (I actually did the same thing with a recipe the other day, not good!)
😉 T
Hey Tracy
I’m glad you got it. Yes, you just carry on using the same stitch pattern you’ve used before but not repeating the actual rows. (Cos that won’t work!)
So each block of dcs gets longer by two at one end and shorter by one at the other. The number of chains between them stays constant.
QT
I just commented on this patter on ravelry asking the exact same question, lol. I got half way through repeating row one before I said hey….wait a second…this won’t work….and figured it out. Don’t feel bad!! 🙂
[…] Sweet Eleanor Scarf/Wrap « Yarn & Spices. […]
My days, but this is beautiful – worthy of its moniker!
Thank you very much!
This is lovely. I love the design with the open space. Thanks for writing out the pattern!
You’re welcome. It’s so flattering the positive response this scarf has got.
Lovely design, you should be very proud of it: it is deservedly causing quite a buzz. It’s on my to do list.
I see a few of these in my near future – one as a Christmas gift, and one for meee! Thank you for the lovely pattern!
Do you think this would work with size 10 bamboo thread?
You know what give it a try and feed back to me! I don’t see why not. People seem to have made it in all sorts of threads and yarns. (If it doesn’t work out I apologise!)
What a wonderful design, thanks for sharing!
♥♥♥♥♥ I check ravelry for newly posted patterns every morning and normally just place patterns i like in my favourites – HOWEVER – this beautiful pattern dictates that I start this immediately.
What a star you are for allowing us all to enjoy this pattern – thank you thank you thank you ♥♥♥♥♥
This is a lovely scarf! Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks for sharing this beautiful pattern. I’m not very experienced so have got a bit stuck at the start of row 3. What does it mean ‘dc2 in loop, dc in next 4dc’? Does it mean make a loop with the chain of 6 and do 2 dc inside that loop? Or do 2dc down into the chain? Or make a loop and then stitch 2 dc onwards onto the foundation chain? I’ve spent a good hour searching for instructions/videos on this instruction but not found the answer. Thank you!
Hiya
It means work two double crochet stitches in the loop created by the six chains on the previous row, then carry on working four double crochet stitches as normal in the stitches the other side of that loop.
I hope that helps.
Just want to say thank you for your reply. You’re getting such interest in this pattern that you’re also getting lots of questions, so thanks for being generous. It seems to be working for me now.
I hope you’re still monitoring this older post, I need some help. I’ve completed through row 2. I can’t figure out the 2dc in loop part in row 3. I did the dc in first st, ch6. Do you work the 2dc into the dc stitches from row 1 (under the ch6 from row 2)? Or do you work the 2dc stitches into the ch6 stitches from row 2? Thank you for your help.
Hi Meg
Into the ch6 stitches from row 2.
Sorry if that wasn’t clear!
[…] (you gave me the yarn). Completed brown lace skirt from Inside Crochet (queensland rustic dk) and Sweet Eleanor Scarf – 2 skeins of Zauberball – black and […]
Thanks to all you lovely commenters who’ve kindly told me you like this pattern. I am really delighted that people are enjoying making it and I hope you are as happy with the results as Elly and I have been.
Have dropped everything else to do this!! it looks beautiful.
Thanks for sharing. It is so nice to find free patterns on ravelry. Way to go!
Very nice scarf! I’m not typically a scarf person but this is breathtaking! I think it will be fun to work it up in a lot of different types of yarn and thread as well. Thanks so much for your hard work and for posting it for free!
I really wanted to make this scarf but had to frog it 3 times. I dont know where I am going wrong. Could you let me know if each dc is increasing by 1dc? I really want to make it for my mother but somehow got lost.
Yes each row the number of dc in each repeat is increasing by one dc. That is to say it gets longer by two dc at one end and shorter by one dc at the other end.
I’m sorry to hear about your frogging! I did get this tested before I put it up because I knew it would be popular but my testers didn’t pick up much to change.
R2. *Dc5, ch6, sk 6st* rep from * 15 times. Dc in final dc. Ch1 turn
I am just getting started on the beautiful scarf! I have a question, in R2, I will do 5 single crochet (american) then chain 6 and skip the 6th stitch and then repeat that sequence 15 times.
I am almost done with R2 and it just does not look right, but maybe it is correct.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
At only row two is does look a bit odd still. The shape doesn’t begin to show through until a few rows in.
So saying this is what you do:
Five US single crochets. The chain six and skip the next six stitches on the row below. Then do five US single crochets from the seventh stitch onwards followed by chaining six and skipping the six stitches on the row below etc.
Do it right and after 15 repeats there should be one stitch on the row below into which you can work the last single crochet to complete the final chained loop.
I hope that helps.
Good morning, when you say “thread” do you mean lace yarn, the weight used for doilies and etc? I want to try this pattern for my mom as a Christmas present but am nervous about getting a yarn that’s not lightweight enough.
Good morning Jes thanks for commenting!
I used the cotlin thread in this catalogue: http://www.handweavers.co.uk/shop/cotton_linen.pdf (opens as a pdf document) but lots of people have made this project in much thicker yarns. I would suggest that if you make it in a thicker yarn you use a relatively larger hook to increase the drape. I hope that helps.
Thank you for responding! I’m taking the cotlin specifics to my yarn store to find out what the staff thinks would be an appropriate yarn selection for me. 🙂
To clarify on what Tracy asked about the patten repetition after row 9, we are repeating the stitches in row 9 for as many rows as you want your scarf to be, as long as we stop on an odd numbered row, correct? (i.e. row 1, row 2, row 3, row 4, row 5, row 6, row 7, row 8, row 9 (x26) depending on how wide/lond you’d like the scarf to be. this would = 35 rows like you did) Or did you mean you did 35 rows of #9? 🙂
Thanks for the help!
Jes, by the time you have worked nine rows I assume that you understand the underlying pattern that the stitches are making?
Each row is composed of groups of double crochets separated by chains six stitches long. Every time you work one of these groups of double crochets it gets longer by two stitches at one end and shorter by one stitch at the other end. Whether it gets longer first or shorter first depends on which end of the scarf you started from.
This means that each group of double crochets gets one stitch longer with every row that you work.
So, you cannot just repeat rows 1-9 as the number of doubles would not add up.
Instead work the same stitch pattern as you have been but with the increased number of double crochets each time.
I hope this helps.
I was so confused at row three until I figures out that the gaps made in row two are to be used at individual stitches. I’m a beginner at chrocheting so I was googling loop stitches and trying evrything I could think of before that. I’m so happy I got it figured out, because this will make a lovely christmas present to my best friend. She will love this!
Just wanted to share in case anyone else is confused like I was. 🙂
That’s it, where you make a gap (i.e. a space between the chain stitches and the row below) in row two you work two dc in row three.
i love the pattern and I’ve made this for my mum. I used a different type of yarn and an at row29 (my last row). As I was doing this row, I ran out of yarn. Will this pattern work if the last row is an even one?
Than you. I’m glad you like the pattern. I’m sure it could work. Do the slip stitch at the beginning as usual then just work a dc in every dc and 6dc in every chain loop across and bind off at the end. That should be fine.
Hi! I’m just starting on this scarf (very lovely pattern by the way), but it’s looking like it might come out far too small. For some reference, what was the length of your first row? I’m using fingering weight with a 2.75mm hook, but maybe my tension’s just too tight.
Oo, um, I’m not sure and I don’t have the original here it’s gone off to its owner. I know it got about 20-25cm longer while I was making it and ended up a good long scarf but I couldn’t say how long it started off at. Sorry not to be more helpful.
My tension is very loose so if you crochet tightly you might want a bigger hook.
How long were other people’s first rows I wonder?
Ho hum. Alright, well thanks for the speedy reply. Chain stitches with the yarn I’m using don’t look very good loose though. Do you think it would be fine if I tried increasing the base chain by 11 or 22 sts?
Another stab in the dark, but if you don’t know the length, would you happen to remember how many times you could wrap the inner edge around your neck?
I’d suggest that increasing the base chain is probably your best bet. I’m afraid I honestly couldn’t say how many times it wrapped or anything else. I’ll take a guess at the initial length being somewhere in the region of 120cm but I could well be out. I just do this for a hobby, I’m not a professional, so I don’t think to take all these measurements etc.
Seriously this is a shout out to other readers: PLEASE LET US KNOW WHAT YOUR INITIAL CHAIN LENGTH WAS! Thank you!
Thanks for this great pattern! My friend, Jes (who replied earlier) told me about this pattern and I have since started and am now on row 20! It’s such a pretty pattern! Excellent job! 🙂
Ok I’m with everyone else on here and am thinking my version is way too small same hook size and 10(lace) crochet thread it looks beautiful. I left a comment on ravelry ask the same question….. Sorry shoud have read here first. This pattern is to die for… I am a pretty decent hooker(lol) but lace weight tread may be something different by U.K. Standards so I will give my chain row one measurement & won’t frog until I get some responses BUT I am going to hibernate it and start a new one with larger hook and some DK weight
29 inches just under 74cm stretched out. Please everyone who is working on this help everyone out and post chain row 1 length.. And i can’t thank you enough for sharing this beautiful pattern.. It is wonderful and you should be proud!!
I too love this scarf – very architectural!
I am working in dk or #3 light yarn with an 4.5mm hook and my first row is 43 1/4 inches or about 110 cm. I too wondered about length, since working on a larger yarn.
Thank you Theresa.
You may indeed find that you need to do fewer rows to get the length you want but hopefully you also still get the right width given that it’ll be bigger altogether.
I really do need to get Elly to part with the scarf for a few minutes and take a measurement. I’m sorry not to have got around to this yet.
I am really enjoying making this. The pattern is so simple to follow but so beautiful. I am using a double knitting weight (8 ply) cotton mix and a 4mm hook. My original chain length was about 115 cm.
I’m so glad you’re enjoying and thank you for posting the length of the chain.
I have just completed it and it is gorgeous. I finished with a picot row – I hope that you do not mind.
Thank you so much for the pattern.
Why on earth would I mind? Patterns are always a starting point not an ending. I am as my bio says an inveterate fiddler with patterns.
People have done some wonderful things in making this pattern their own. A picot row is a really great idea.
I know lots of people have asked this question before, but I literally learned to crochet about 10 days ago and this is the first big pattern I’m trying out! Presumably when you get to row 9 you just carry on increasing that cluster of DC – so it’s 10DC at row 9, 11DC in row 10, 12DC in row 11 etc? I assume you don’t start reducing or anything crazy like that! I’m at row 6 so the pattern isn’t exactly non-existent, but I still can’t really visualise how the whole thing is going to work!
Thanks a lot for the free pattern – patterns for free like this have meant I can learn to do this myself without having to spend a fortune to get started! I inherited my crochet hooks from my nan, but since she passed away I have no one to teach me, so am totally reliant on the internet (Nanny would be proud!)
four more rows and a lunch break later, I can finally see the pattern emerging – woop woop! May just have answered my own question (and feeling like a bit of a muppet now…)
WELL DONE!
Firstly, when you’re learning there are no stupid questions.
Secondly, lots of experienced crocheters have asked what you asked as you said.
Thirdly, yes, each cluster of dcs gets one stitch bigger every row.
Fourthly, welcome to the wonderful world of crochet! I hope you have a great time learning and get as much pleasure from your adventure and from your finished objects as I have.
I’m very flattered you chose my pattern as one of your first full sized projects.
Allow me to point you to one of my beginner crochet exploits which may give you a bit of a giggle and save you making an expensive mistake like I did.
Haha brilliant! My first attempt at the scarf doesn’t look as outrageously disastrous, but I think the words ‘lumpy mess’ do begin to cover the monstrosity I created 😉
It is taking shape really nicely now – thanks for the advice!
My crochet exploits now include a scarf as well as numerous amigurumi angry birds 🙂
So I just started this pattern, and am on my first row 7, and I’m concerned that I’m not getting any spiral! It’s just a long line…will it spiral as I continue? I’m using Pattons Lace yarn, which is 10% mohair, and almost IMPOSSIBLE to frog/unravel if I’m doing something wrong…Maybe it will make more sense once I’ve slept on it, lol.
It should spiral as you continue. The outer rows have to get long enough relative to the inner rows to need to push them round to make way for the extra stitches. At seven rows it’s probably still a bit too even.
However, if you’re concerned, I suggest you make a short version (say, only five chain loops per row) out of cheap yarn to test you’re following the pattern right. I keep a couple of balls of garish acrylic to hand for practicing stitch patterns and working out odd ideas that pop into my head. They save my good yarn from stressful frogging issues.
this is one of the most beautiful shawls i have ever seen thanks for sharing!
I tried this pattern about 3 times. I keep getting really confused. I don’t know if maybe I’m reading it wrong but it just doesn’t come out how it should. Is there any way you can put it into American abbreviations instead? If not ill just try again. I think it looks beautiful but I really just keep getting confused with the skipping and the 2 stitches in one parts.
Hi Lindsey, Would you expect an American designer to re-write their free patterns in British notation? Ihave a full time job and this blog is my occasional hobby.
I’m sorry you’re not getting it but on the information you’ve given here I don’t know how to advise you. You are aware that the first few rows don’t look like the finished pattern aren’t you? They just look a bit odd and stringy. The rows have to build up to work.
I kinda figured that because that’s how some patterns are. They look weird at first and then it comes together. I’m gunna try again sometime this week and I won’t give up. I really like it and would like to make one for my mom. I guess I just need a bit more practice. Its the parts that you have to skip the stitches that confuse me really, everything else I think I can read. I’ve been trying to read more different types of patterns so I can do this one.
This was one of my beginner projects too. If you need it in American, I suggest copying it into word or similar, and doing a ‘find and replace’ – switch all the ‘Dc’ instructions to ‘Sc’. Print it, and scribble on the pattern as you complete it – be methodical.
The skipping part may make more sense as you get going – essentially your blocked in section (the Sc/Dc part) will increase by two at one end, and decrease by one at the other. It means that the chunk in the middle gets a little bigger each time, and moves over a little.
Here’s the first few rows for you in American with the instructions written out in long form.
R1. Sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sc in each remaining ch. Ch1 turn.
R2. *Sc5, ch6, sk 6st* rep from * 15 times. Dc in final Sc. Ch1 turn.
– If you’re not sure about skipping stitches, this is the easiest bit. Just literally leave those six stitches alone – notice your chain should be the same length as the bit you’re skipping? Just carry on and do your next Sc as normal.
R3. Sc in 1st st, *ch6, Sc2 in loop, Sc in next 4Sc, sk1Sc* rep from * 15 times. Do not ch. Turn.
Same as before but you’re beginning to build up the repeating pattern now. Single crochet into your first stitch, then *make your 6 chains. Next you need to make the two single crochets in the loop. Notice on the row directly below you’ve made a gap with those chain stitches? Put your hook into the gap, and yarn over. Pull the yarn through the gap to the front, yarn over again. Pull through the stitches as though this was just a regular single crochet (it is). Do the same again next to it. Now single crochet in your next four stitches. LEAVE THE LAST ONE. You should have just made two extra stitches at one end, and skipped the last Sc at the other. Repeat from the * until the end.
R4. Slst in next Sc, ch1, Sc in same Sc, Sc in next 4Sc, Sc2 in loop, ch6. * Sk1Sc, Sc in next 5Sc, Sc2 in loop, Sc6* rep 14 times. Sc in top of Sc. Ch1 turn.
– Once you get going, this row works on the same principle of increasing your crocheted block, and moving it along by a stitch, only at this end you need to do a bit of neat turning. Slip stitch your first stitch, chain, and go back into the stitch you slipped and do a single crochet. Single crochet the next four – you should now have reached your chain loops again. Make two stitches in the loop the same was as you did before and then chain six. You should now be back to a section of Sc. *Skip the first stitch – nothing fancy, just leave it out. Sc in your remaining 5 Sc. Make two stitches in the chain gap again, and chain 6. Repeat from * until end. Do a Sc at the end, chain 1, and turn.
R5. Sc in 1st Sc, *ch6, Sc2 in loop, Sc in next 6Sc, sk1Sc* rep from * 15 times. Do not ch. Turn.
You’ll notice this is the same principle as row 3 – you’ve just got more stitches now. Row six will work in the same way as row 4, again just with more stitches. Once you get to this point you still probably don’t have too much of the curved shape emerging, (that takes quite a bit of time) but you should have the beginnings of the pattern. Get as far as row 10 you should really see the shape.
Hope this helps! I’m sure your mum will love it when it’s done 🙂
Thank you so much Amandycat for providing such a full explanation. I hope Lindseyi can get it now. 🙂 Lindseyi, I wish you luck with your projects.
My goodness, thank you. I haven’t checked this since I was working on other projects. I’m definitely going to use this when I’m done with my amiguruimi dolls.
Thank you for this lovely pattern. I made one up in soft gray lace weight yarn and it really came out prettily!
I love this!!! Its just my style, simple yet very beautiful!!!
[…] Sweet Eleanor […]